
By Dr. Gayle Watkins, PhD
Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.
Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.
Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.
Yes, but you will need to be patient! Start with getting him comfortable near the crate before you try to get him comfortable in the crate. To do this, follow the guidance in Pups and Dogs That Are Afraid Of The Crate.
Here are a few things you can do that will help with get him interested in the crate.
Here is where you need to rely on your understanding of your puppy. Quickly decide if the puppy really needs to go out. If you decide that it does, then take it outside immediately. One of the worst things you can let happen is for your pup to go to the bathroom in the crate so always err on the side of taking it outside. If your pup isn’t fully house trained, be sure to follow all of your house-training protocols.
After you get back inside, reset the timer and start again. And next session, be sure to potty your pup before starting crate training.
Initially, several sessions a day will help your puppy quickly learn to be calm and quiet in the crate. Once your pup is at Lesson 3, then you can train 3-5 times a week unless you’ve run into a problem. When you do have an issue, increase the number of daily sessions.
Covering the crate results in what we call “social isolation.” For a short period, you make it so your pup can’t see anything outside the crate, which most pups don’t enjoy. Dropping the sheet as soon as it barks, teaches the pup that when it barks, the sheet comes down. When it’s quiet, the sheet comes up.
Bark=down, quiet=up.
Gradually, the pup will learn how to keep the sheet up by staying quiet.
Since we want your pup to be quiet when confined whether or not you are there, we don’t want to depend upon your voice to do this. Otherwise, your pup may be quiet when you are next to the crate but noisy when you are away, defeating the purpose of crate training.
If your puppy is really stressed by the crate, you may see any or all of the following indicators:
If you see these things, don’t give up crate training but instead follow the guidance in Pups and Dogs That Are Afraid Of The Crate.
Absolutely! In fact, you should use treats because we want your pup to learn to love the crate. If you are early on in crate training and using a lot of treats, see if you can find treats that are nutritionally balanced. Options include FreshPet Vita Essentials Real Meat Air-Dried dog food/treats, Ziwi Peak Air-Dried dog food/treats, Primal Freeze-Dried Nuggets, or Instinct Raw Boost. If those don’t work, use meat, cheese or other treats. Regardless, cut you’re your pup’s meals by at least 50%.
Yes! Crate training will go more smoothly if you know your pup has just gone to the bathroom. That way, you won’t be trying to decide if your pup is barking because it has to go out or because it just wants out. Remember, the last thing you want is an accident in the crate.
Some pups are fine being crated when no one is home but become very demanding when people are around. However, it’s wonderful to have a dog who can quietly be confined when you are having a party or other time when having the dog around is problematic.
So teach your pup to be quiet whether or not you are home following Lessons 5 and 6.
This is the opposite of Q10. Your pup is comfortable when crated while you are home but not when you are away. This is a really important thing to work on because barking while alone can easily become separation anxiety.
First, help your pup feel less alone while you are gone.
Next, build your pups affinity for the crate by:
Then do some crate training sessions at a time when you will be home for an extended period. During these sessions, pretend as if you are going out. Get your car keys, put on your coat, etc. If your pup is quiet, come back Lesson 6.
There is no black and white answer to this question when you first start crate training. You need to keep the sessions short since it’s easier pups to be quiet for a short period. Since you are trying to teach the pup that quiet is good, your pup won’t need to be quiet long at first. In fact, you may start by releasing your pup when it is quiet just for a split second. The next session you can require a second or two. Following this program, you will work your way up until your pup is quiet in the crate for hours.
No, unless you think it has to go to the bathroom. Just know that any time you take your pup out of the crate when its barking, you are teaching it to bark in the crate. Keep going a little longer until the barking stops. Then let the pup out.
It is not unusual for a puppy to not want to eat after the crate has been earthquaked. That’s fine —your pup is thinking. Just keep tossing treats into the crate as if nothing happened. Do NOT apologize or even talk to the puppy! Just keep on training. However, if your pup is really stressed (see Q7) after an earthquake, you likely rocked the crate too much. Back off on the rocking next time. You want the earthquake to be enough to stop your pup from barking but not so much that it becomes overwhelmed.
Never, but, you can reduce the number of rewards you give once it is very comfortable in the crate for long periods. However, for the rest of his life you should be sure there are chewies and toys in crate. And show your gratitude for having such a wonderful dog but giving a treat when it is a good dog going into or staying in the crate, perhaps not every time but many times.
Never talk to, look at, or approach a barking puppy! When you engage a barking puppy you are doing the same thing as tossing him a treat because you are giving him attention! Because you yelled at him, he learned that his barking got your attention. Now he will bark again. Remember that puppies that bark should be, at the very least, ignored!
Not at all! You have done a great job training if your pup is choosing to be in his crate. There is no reason to discourage it from or worry about this.
Puppies inherently want to live in a clean environment so they will try to avoid going to the bathroom in their living space. But, you have to keep that space very small to start with. With that, your pup will try to wait until you take it out to potty, usually outside. Without confining him, he will find another area inside your house but away from his living space to use as a toilet. He does not care where he potties as long as he does not have to live in the same area.
The most important thing to teach your puppy right now is that if he tells you he has to the bathroom,you will respond! You want him to trust that you will take him out when he needs to go, so if you think he needs to go, take him out!
Do your best to learn to differentiate your pup’s various barks. There usually is a difference in the bark of a puppy who wants to come out to play and a puppy who really has to potty! If you pay attention you will learn the differences in your puppy’s barks and then you can respond appropriately.
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I have had 3 puppies in the past 4 years. The last pup I have is on the Puppy Training Program and has been by far the easiest to train while learning at a much faster rate than the other two. If i had known training could be so smooth I would have done this sooner.
– Janet and Rip (Labrador Retriever)
Puppy Training Program students