Troubleshooting and FAQs

By Dr. Gayle Watkins, PhD

Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.

Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.

Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1. My puppy is afraid of the crate! Is there anything I can do to help him get over his fear?

Yes, but you will need to be patient! Start with getting him comfortable near the crate before you try to get him comfortable in the crate. To do this, follow the guidance in Pups and Dogs That Are Afraid Of The Crate.

Q2. My puppy has no interest in the crate. What can I do?

Here are a few things you can do that will help with get him interested in the crate.

  • Be sure to train when your puppy is hungry. Before a meal is ideal.
  • Use treats that are really, really delicious to your pup, such as cut-up steak or pork. We call these “high-value treats.
  • Cut back on your pup’s meals and feed most of his food during crate training.
  • Feed all of your pup’s meals in the crate.
  • Hang out next to the crate and have fun toys and good chews that your pup only gets from the crate. Your pup doesn’t have to stay in the crate but you want it going in and out, even if it’s to grab a toy.
  • Move the crate to a less stimulating environment.
  • Hide special treats and toys in the crate when your pup isn’t looking so it can discover them during the day.

Q3. What should I do if I think my puppy has to go to the bathroom in the middle of a crate-training session?

Here is where you need to rely on your understanding of your puppy. Quickly decide if the puppy really needs to go out. If you decide that it does, then take it outside immediately. One of the worst things you can let happen is for your pup to go to the bathroom in the crate so always err on the side of taking it outside. If your pup isn’t fully house trained, be sure to follow all of your house-training protocols.

After you get back inside, reset the timer and start again. And next session, be sure to potty your pup before starting crate training.

Q4. How often should I do crate-training sessions?

Initially, several sessions a day will help your puppy quickly learn to be calm and quiet in the crate. Once your pup is at Lesson 3, then you can train 3-5 times a week unless you’ve run into a problem. When you do have an issue, increase the number of daily sessions.

Q5. Why do I need to cover my puppy’s crate when it barks?

Covering the crate results in what we call “social isolation.” For a short period, you make it so your pup can’t see anything outside the crate, which most pups don’t enjoy. Dropping the sheet as soon as it barks, teaches the pup that when it barks, the sheet comes down. When it’s quiet, the sheet comes up.

Bark=down, quiet=up.

Gradually, the pup will learn how to keep the sheet up by staying quiet.

Q6. Why can’t I talk to my puppy when training him to be quiet in the crate?

Since we want your pup to be quiet when confined whether or not you are there, we don’t want to depend upon your voice to do this. Otherwise, your pup may be quiet when you are next to the crate but noisy when you are away, defeating the purpose of crate training.

Q7. How will I know when my puppy is stressed in the crate?

If your puppy is really stressed by the crate, you may see any or all of the following indicators:

  • Ears pinned back
  • Tail carried low or tucked under his belly
  • Body carried low to the ground when moving around crate
  • Licking its lips
  • Drooling
  • Quivering

If you see these things, don’t give up crate training but instead follow the guidance in Pups and Dogs That Are Afraid Of The Crate.

Q8. My puppy doesn't really like his dog food. Can I use treats instead of his meals to start crate training?

Absolutely! In fact, you should use treats because we want your pup to learn to love the crate. If you are early on in crate training and using a lot of treats, see if you can find treats that are nutritionally balanced. Options include FreshPet Vita Essentials Real Meat Air-Dried dog food/treats, Ziwi Peak Air-Dried dog food/treats, Primal Freeze-Dried Nuggets, or Instinct Raw Boost. If those don’t work, use meat, cheese or other treats. Regardless, cut you’re your pup’s meals by at least 50%.

Q9. Do I have to potty my puppy before I start crate training?

Yes! Crate training will go more smoothly if you know your pup has just gone to the bathroom. That way, you won’t be trying to decide if your pup is barking because it has to go out or because it just wants out. Remember, the last thing you want is an accident in the crate.

Q10. Why is my puppy quiet in the crate when I am away from the house but not when I am home?

Some pups are fine being crated when no one is home but become very demanding when people are around. However, it’s wonderful to have a dog who can quietly be confined when you are having a party or other time when having the dog around is problematic.

So teach your pup to be quiet whether or not you are home following Lessons 5 and 6.

Q11. My neighbors tell me that my puppy is noisy when I am not home but it is quiet when I am. What can I do if I am not home?

This is the opposite of Q10. Your pup is comfortable when crated while you are home but not when you are away. This is a really important thing to work on because barking while alone can easily become separation anxiety.

First, help your pup feel less alone while you are gone.

  • Be sure he has had lots of exercise before you leave and put him in the crate.
  • Leave a radio or TV on to mask the noises he may hear outside, which could cause him to bark.
  • Give him special chew items that he only gets while in the crate, like stuffed Kongs, marrow bones and knuckle bones.

Next, build your pups affinity for the crate by:

  • Feed him all its meals in the crate.
  • Increase the number of training sessions you do so your pup is getting many, many treats in the crate.
  • Increase the value of the treats you are using while crate training.

Then do some crate training sessions at a time when you will be home for an extended period. During these sessions, pretend as if you are going out. Get your car keys, put on your coat, etc. If your pup is quiet, come back Lesson 6.

Q12. How long does my puppy have to be quiet before I can take it out of the crate?

There is no black and white answer to this question when you first start crate training. You need to keep the sessions short since it’s easier pups to be quiet for a short period. Since you are trying to teach the pup that quiet is good, your pup won’t need to be quiet long at first. In fact, you may start by releasing your pup when it is quiet just for a split second. The next session you can require a second or two. Following this program, you will work your way up until your pup is quiet in the crate for hours.

Q13. Do I take my puppy out of the crate when the timer goes off even if it's barking?

No, unless you think it has to go to the bathroom. Just know that any time you take your pup out of the crate when its barking, you are teaching it to bark in the crate. Keep going a little longer until the barking stops. Then let the pup out.

Q14. If my puppy won’t eat after an earthquake, what should I do?

It is not unusual for a puppy to not want to eat after the crate has been earthquaked. That’s fine —your pup is thinking. Just keep tossing treats into the crate as if nothing happened. Do NOT apologize or even talk to the puppy! Just keep on training. However, if your pup is really stressed (see Q7) after an earthquake, you likely rocked the crate too much. Back off on the rocking next time. You want the earthquake to be enough to stop your pup from barking but not so much that it becomes overwhelmed.

Q15. When can I stop rewarding my dog for being in the crate?

Never, but, you can reduce the number of rewards you give once it is very comfortable in the crate for long periods. However, for the rest of his life you should be sure there are chewies and toys in crate. And show your gratitude for having such a wonderful dog but giving a treat when it is a good dog going into or staying in the crate, perhaps not every time but many times.

Q16. My puppy used to be quiet in the crate but he has begun to bark more and more, even when I yell at him. What should I do?

Never talk to, look at, or approach a barking puppy! When you engage a barking puppy you are doing the same thing as tossing him a treat because you are giving him attention! Because you yelled at him, he learned that his barking got your attention. Now he will bark again. Remember that puppies that bark should be, at the very least, ignored!

Q17. My puppy goes into its crate to sleep if I leave the door open. Is that a problem?

Not at all! You have done a great job training if your pup is choosing to be in his crate. There is no reason to discourage it from or worry about this.

Q18. Why do I have to use a crate to house train my puppy?

Puppies inherently want to live in a clean environment so they will try to avoid going to the bathroom in their living space. But, you have to keep that space very small to start with. With that, your pup will try to wait until you take it out to potty, usually outside. Without confining him, he will find another area inside your house but away from his living space to use as a toilet. He does not care where he potties as long as he does not have to live in the same area.

Q19. Since I am house training my puppy, too, is it more important for me to take him out when he barks if he has to potty or should I insist that he be quiet before letting him out of his crate?

The most important thing to teach your puppy right now is that if he tells you he has to the bathroom,you will respond! You want him to trust that you will take him out when he needs to go, so if you think he needs to go, take him out!

Do your best to learn to differentiate your pup’s various barks. There usually is a difference in the bark of a puppy who wants to come out to play and a puppy who really has to potty! If you pay attention you will learn the differences in your puppy’s barks and then you can respond appropriately.

Dr. Gayle Watkins, PhD is the Founder of Avidog, the leading educational platform for dog breeders and puppy owners, and Gaylan's Golden Retrievers, her 40-year breeding program. Today, Gayle is the only golden retriever AKC Gold Breeder of Merit, and is a three-time AKC “Breeder of the Year.”