Maiden Bitches

• Timing a first breeding
• Recommendation on when a bitch should start breeding

Timing a first breeding

Q: Susan, when you pair a dog and bitch for the first time and neither are "proven,” other than progesterone testing for timing, do you suggest a relaxin test or ultrasound to verify pregnancy? Also, would you still have an x-ray done for a puppy count?

Other than OxyMate, should the bitch still be given B-Strong (Breeder's Edge) or any other vitamins during her pregnancy?

I haven't whelped a litter since February 2011 and that was for a friend of mine. I have also never whelped a litter of smaller breed pups where the bitch was under 90 pounds and now I have Cocker Spaniels. Anything special I should know about smaller breeds?

I know this is more than one question, but I want to make sure that I do this right and have as much knowledge and information as I can get before puppies arrive if everything worked out right!

A: There are a few tools that you can use to help determine the correct time to breed, and you are correct that timing using progesterone testing is the ‘gold standard.’ I like using the Witness Relaxin test 30 days after the last breeding, and I also run a progesterone test at that time. Doing this lets me know if she is pregnant and how her progesterone level is doing. If it is a bit low, then I will monitor it weekly or more often.

I give all of my dogs a human-grade B-50 vitamin because of the benefits that the B vitamins have to the dog’s overall health. Because they are water-soluble, I want to make sure that what they need is available. When I know I am going to breed one of my girls, I add 400-800mcg Folic Acid or Folate to mitigate possible midline defects. I also include DHA, and Vit C for my pregnant girls. I am careful of supplements because I do not want too much Vit A, or other vitamins that can cause issues. More is not always ‘better.’

I also am very careful to avoid any product that contains blue cohosh or red raspberry leaves, as they can cause uterine contractions, which can adversely affect pregnancy. It is very important to closely read the labels of any supplement you give to know the ingredients.

Smaller breeds are obviously going to produce smaller puppies, but do not let that scare you! Simply be prepared that they may need more warmth in the whelping box, and you may want to start weighing them in grams instead of ounces so that you can make sure they are gaining weight daily. I also like to make sure I am not dealing with hypoglycemic situations, which can happen in smaller puppies, so you will need to be on alert for that. 

Recommendation on when a bitch should start breeding

Q: Hi Susan, should a dam's first breeding be the second heat cycle, or would you recommend going by the age of the dog? Why or why not? 

A: In my opinion, a dam’s first breeding should not be done until she has all of her required health testing done and her growth plates are closed, regardless of how many heat cycles or age. I do understand that this varies by breed and that many toy breeds are fully mature with their required health testing before some of the larger breeds. If your breed requires OFA Hips and Elbows, those cannot be done until age 2yrs, so that sets a time frame for breeding to no sooner than 2yrs old.

Heat cycles are not ‘regular’ for all dogs. As an example, my Gordon Setter passed all of her health clearances before ever having her first heat cycle at 26 months! Yet, most of my Labradors have their first heat cycle at 9-12months of age and generally cycle every 6-9months, but I still wait until I have final clearances. I would also consider the mental readiness of your girls. Remember, each dog is an individual, and some mature mentally quicker than others. Using my Gordon Setter as an example, she was not bred for the first time until she was 4yrs old, and in my opinion, she was then ready mentally too.