The most important cue a dog can learn to come when called

By Dr. Gayle Watkins, PhD
Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.
Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.
Good Dog is on a mission to educate the public and make it simple for people to get dogs from good sources and for reputable breeders, shelters and rescues to put their dogs in good homes.
The most important cue a dog can learn is a reliable Come When Called — it truly can be a life-saving command! Unfortunately, most dogs have either learned that they don’t need to come or that not-so-fun things happen when they do.
Coming when called is a habit! The more pups come when called, the more they will continue to come. The less often pups come when called, the more they will continue to come. Your job is to build a “come habit” in your puppy.
We’d recommend you have several words related to come so you can keep your standards very high for come. You don’t have to use our cue words. Pick your pup’s cues but then stick to them so you have three different ways to get your pup to come.
“Come” – this is your primary word and it means “come close enough to me that I can put my hand through your collar.” Think of “come” as a place so you are telling your dog to come to this place near me. We teach our dogs to come to our sides, not to the front since it’s awkward to have your dog immediately in front of you. Other commonly used cues: Here
“Here” – this is your emergency recall word and it means “come to me as fast as you can, something amazing is going to happen.” We teach an emergency recall word because “come” tends to lose value over time as owners don’t reward it.
“C’mere” – this is your casual word that means “come close to me, we are going this way.” You don’t have to have a casual recall word but it’s nice to have when you don’t really need the dog to come all the way to you.
As you prepare your puppy’s meals, it will likely be right there with you, having heard all the cues that mean food is coming. Even if your puppy is right there by your feet when you’re ready to put the food bowl down, step backward quickly a few paces and say “Puppy, Come.” As it reaches you and the bow, stand still, say “Yes!” and give the pup the bowl of food instead of a treat. Sometimes say your pup’s name first and then “Come.” Other times, just say “Come” as your puppy gets to you.
Watch for other times during the day when your dog is already focused on you and coming to you in a motivated way. For example:
This game teaches your pup to anticipate good things when you reach for its collar. Some dogs tend to shy away when you reach for them, making it difficult for you to take their collar or put their leash on. This game teaches puppies that having your hand on its collar means great things are going to happen.
Is your pup afraid of your hand? If so, move your hand toward the collar from underneath or beside the pup’s head. Move it slowly. Take every opportunity to make collar grabs a good thing. DO NOT use the word “come” while you are practicing this. In fact, there is no verbal cue for this. Your open hand reaching for the collar is the cue.
Is your pup biting your hand? If so, be sure you are reaching with an open hand so it doesn’t look like you have a treat. Then, put on gloves so you won’t get hurt by your pup’s teeth, say “yes” and give a treat from the other hand.
Additional ideas for concerned pups are to grab the dog’s collar when your puppy is resting on your lap, when you put its food bowl down, or when it is jumping into the car.
Most dogs cannot resist investigating when you quickly move away from them. While on an on-leash walk when your dog seems least engaged with its environment, stop suddenly. Become dramatic, make some sort of explanation, such as “Oh! Wow!” and either back up quickly or turn around and move quickly away a few steps. Your dog will wonder what is up and will turn to see, perhaps even begin running to you.
When you see that your puppy is highly motivated and running toward you, call your dog’s name, then “Come”, say “Yes!” and pull something wonderful out of your pocket, such as their dinner in a baggie or a meatball. Since this “come” is outdoors, be sure to have a great treat!
Your dog has learned that it was worthwhile investigating when you move quickly away. Now we will take advantage of this to teach them an emergency recall, the recall that will always work in times of crisis.
It’s time to pick and teach a new word for your Emergency Recall. You will continue to use your normal word (“come”) for day-to-day activities so this new cue will only be used for your emergency recall. “Here,” “Now!” “ComeHere” “Pronto” “Quick” all work well.
Pick a word that:
Plan this training well in advance because you have to prepare amazing rewards. These rewards need to be the best thing that has happened to your puppy all day.
You will need three food items each day (or if your puppy doesn’t like food, use what they like best…play, cuddling, walks, retrieving, or tug-of-war). Food rewards should be large, relative to the size of the dog, and very high quality (in the dog’s opinion). Cut down on your pup’s other food rather than short it on these rewards. Examples for a golden retriever puppy might be a quarter of a McDonald’s hamburger (hold the pickle, hold the onions), a small spare ribs (no bone), a chunk of chicken breast, a quarter of a hardboiled egg, or a quarter of a meatball.

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I have had 3 puppies in the past 4 years. The last pup I have is on the Puppy Training Program and has been by far the easiest to train while learning at a much faster rate than the other two. If i had known training could be so smooth I would have done this sooner.
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